Welcome back to the podcast, where we dive deep into the lives of those who find their deepest connections and most profound sense of self within the vast, blue expanse of the ocean. Today, we are honored to share the wisdom and exhilarating stories of a true ocean legend, a man whose name is synonymous with grace, power, and the purest form of waterman ship: Gerry Lopez. While many know him for revolutionizing pipeline surfing, his impact extends far beyond the barrel, reaching into the grueling world of ultra-distance paddling where the line between physical endurance and mental mastery completely dissolves. It is in the legendary Molokai to Oahu (M2O) paddleboard race that Gerry found a new crucible for testing the limits of human potential and discovering the profound, meditative state that ocean athletes call flow.
The Genesis of a Waterman: From Surf Pioneer to Paddling Innovator
Gerry Lopez’s journey into ocean life began in the fertile waters of Hawaii, setting the stage for a career that would shape surfing history forever. His early years were spent intimately studying the waves, learning the rhythms of the Pacific, and translating that deep understanding into his pioneering surfboard designs, always pushing the limits of what was possible on the water. This dedication to innovation was not confined to surfing, however, as Gerry became instrumental in the resurgence of prone paddleboarding, collaborating with others to refine board shapes and keep the tradition alive during times of lower interest in the 70s and 80s. He was a foundational figure in the paddling community long before the modern boom, laying the groundwork for the incredibly popular sport it has become today.
As the decades progressed, Gerry relocated to Oregon, but his heart remained firmly anchored in the Hawaiian islands and the competitive spirit of ocean racing. He was there at the dawn of the stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) movement, helping to pair innovators like Dave Chun of Kialoa paddles with the emerging sport, recognizing the potential for new forms of ocean exploration and competition. This passion for pioneering new ways to interact with the ocean led him, alongside friends, to establish the renowned Battle of the Paddle event, bringing the excitement of prone paddling in and out through the waves back into the spotlight. It was this constant drive toward innovation and community building that eventually brought him back to the ultimate test of endurance: the Molokai to Oahu race, known universally as the M2O. He was drawn not just by the physical challenge, but by the opportunity to participate in an event that defines the spirit of the Hawaiian waterman tradition.
Navigating the Kaiwi Channel: Harnessing Local Knowledge for Maximum Flow
The M2O, a grueling 32-mile crossing of the Kaiwi Channel, is known as the world’s most challenging paddleboard race, a contest where the ocean itself is the primary competitor. Gerry first tackled the channel as part of a team, sponsored by Rainbow Sandals, recognizing the immense demands of the crossing. His early attempts were steep learning curves, demonstrating how quickly the vastness of the channel can punish even seasoned veterans. In his first team crossing with Sparky, they went too far south, fighting a brutal battle to correct their course and ultimately finish the race, highlighting the technical navigation challenges inherent in the event.
However, it was in the subsequent years that Gerry demonstrated how profound local knowledge and a deep, immersive understanding of the ocean environment can lead to moments of pure, strategic flow. Recounting his second team crossing, Gerry described how they adjusted their strategy, heading north off the start for a better run, which ultimately led to him finishing the final leg solo. As he approached the finish line near Portlock Point, an area he knew intimately from countless hours surfing China Walls, he entered a state of hyper-awareness, utilizing decades of accumulated knowledge to find the path of least resistance. While other paddlers struggled against the wind and currents in the open channel, Gerry executed a brilliant, low-profile strategy: “I went in right along the cliff there, caught a little wave and caught another wave at second point, and just kind of hugged the shoreline, kind of stayed out of the wind.” This immersion in the local environment allowed him to pass competitors who were physically stronger, showcasing the power of integrated focus and strategic flow over brute force alone.
The Defining Moment: Breaking the Spirit with a Perfect Surge
Gerry’s most exhilarating story of flow and competitive mastery came during a later M2O team effort, where the stakes were raised in a personal battle against a younger, stronger competitor, Kaipo Guerrero. This race was neck-and-neck, a relentless grind across the channel, pushing both teams to their absolute limits. As they neared Portlock Point, Gerry found himself with a quarter-mile lead, which quickly vanished as Kaipo, fueled by youth and determination, caught up. Gerry knew he was physically outmatched in a straight sprint, forcing him to rely entirely on his connection to the water and his ability to spot an opportunity where none seemed to exist.
This intense, high-stakes situation triggered a remarkable moment of environmental flow, where Gerry’s internal rhythm synchronized perfectly with the ocean’s unpredictable pulse. He committed to his successful strategy of hugging the wall, even as Kaipo closed the gap. The critical moment arrived when a tiny, unexpected surge of water appeared: “This one little wave came, and I kind of squeezed in into the channel, and managed to just go over that rock as the wave came.” This microscopic wave, insignificant to an outsider, was everything to Gerry; it provided just enough lift and momentum to propel him perhaps 100 feet ahead. In that instant, the effort, the fatigue, and the noise of the competition dissolved, replaced by the effortless execution of a perfect, timely maneuver. It was a move so decisive that it broke his competitor’s spirit, a testament not just to physical ability, but to the mental sharpness and deep, intuitive flow state that only decades spent mastering the ocean can cultivate.
The Power of the Mama: Finding Fulfillment in the Deep Channel
For Gerry Lopez, the M2O is more than just a race; it is a pilgrimage that reinforces the communal bond among watermen and connects them to the profound power of the ocean. He emphasizes that the mental challenges of the channel are immense, especially for solo paddlers, but even in a team, the sheer scale of the Kaiwi Channel—known by Hawaiians as “the mama”—is undeniable. This channel crossing strips away all pretense, forcing every participant, whether on the board or in the chase boat, to confront the raw, untamed strength of the sea.
The community aspect of M2O is what gives the event its enduring spirit, fostering a shared experience where every competitor looks out for the others, prioritizing safety and camaraderie over purely competitive outcomes. Gerry notes that when you are out there and the water is black, and you feel the movement of the deep ocean beneath you, the channel humbles you entirely. The deepest point of the channel plunges 600 fathoms, creating a vast, moving body of water that is truly larger than life. This awareness of the ocean’s immensity is the key to fulfillment in the sport: recognizing that you are engaging with something ancient and powerful, requiring utmost respect and total commitment. For Gerry, achieving a flow state in the Kaiwi Channel is not about winning a medal; it is about having a lifetime experience that validates the deep, unwavering connection he shares with the ocean, proving that mastery comes not from fighting the water, but from moving effortlessly within its timeless rhythm.